Kondugallur

Overview

Practically an island surrounded by backwaters and sea, the small rural town of Kodunagalloor (Cranganore), located 35 km south of Trichur, is rich in history. The typically dusty and featureless modern city stands in stark contrast to the stories of its illustrious past. Kodungallur has been identified as the location of the ancient cities of Vanji, once the capital of the Chera kingdom, and Muziri, described in the 1st century. n. e. by the Roman traveler Pliny as Primum Emporium Indiae - the most important port of India. Other accounts describe a harbor full of large ships, warehouses, palaces, temples and yavanas (a general term for foreigners) that brought in gold and left with spices, sandalwood, teak, gems and silks. The city's existence as a major port was cut short in 1341 due to floods that clogged the harbor, leading to the development of Cochin.

Kodungallur is also believed to be the place where Thomas the Apostle (Doubting Thomas) landed in 52 AD, bringing Christianity to the subcontinent. In 69 AD e. Jews arrived fleeing the fall of Jerusalem and established themselves as leaders in the spice trade. By the 7th century There had long been a peaceful relationship between Malabar and the Arab world, so it was not surprising that King Cheraman Perumal, according to legend, converted to Islam, abdicated his throne and emigrated to Mecca. It is said that he founded the Cheraman Jama Masjid here, which was the earliest mosque built in India.

The city is best visited in one day, by bus from Trichur's Shaktan Tampuran station (90 minutes), or on the way between Trichur and Cochin. If you want to stay in Kodungallur, Hotel Indraprastham near the city center has basic and not very expensive air-conditioned rooms, as well as a run-of-the-mill restaurant with cooked lunches and dinners and an air-conditioned “family” restaurant; there is also a bar there.